Day 1: Radolfzell – Reichenau Island, 52 km / 1000 altitude difference
This weekend the idea is to get off the classic Lake Constance cycle path and through the hinterland between Lake Überlingen and Lower Lake. The Bodanrück, as the large hump between the two parts of Lake Constance is called, is an idyllic paradise for mountain bikers, hikers and connoisseurs (like me).
We arrive in the late morning by train from Ulm. Thanks to the Baden-Württemberg ticket, the journey by bike is fast and cheap. At the Radolfzell weekend market, we load our backpacks with travel provisions and immediately set out to climb the first meters of altitude.
Quickly we get on the bike path out of the city and go first for a while on the cycle path on the road to Möggingen. If it were warmer, we would have immediately taken a swim in the Mindelsee – a small lake at the edge of the forest – but continue uphill to Güttingen. From here on, we are thankful that we have GPS with us, because many forest paths are to follow, whose branches can quickly become wrong paths. Nobody wants to to pedal uphill in vain...
At the top of our almost one-hour climb, slightly west of Liggeringen, sits the Altbodman ruins. From here you can enjoy a magnificent view of Überlingen and Lake Überlingen. But also the view into the hinterland is beautiful; you can see from the highest point of the Bodanrück to deep into the Hegau with its volcanic mountains.
We decide shortly before Langenrain to take a break in the Waldstube Hof Höfen. In the shadowy beer garden there are simple but very good dishes, a small playground and plenty of space for cyclists and hikers.
We ride downhill to Freundtal to take a final uphill stretch to Rohnhauser Hof. The small estate in the forest above Dettingen is known for its chicken eggs in the entire region and also offers schnaps in its Hoflanden.
After Dettingen follows the Ziegelhof, which also has a nice beer garden to offer and is a popular family destination due to its approximately one hundred horses. But we focus on cycling and go into the next forest between Dettingen, Dingelsdorf and Litzelstetten. From other cyclists we get the tip to go to the Fuchshof in Oberdorf, here you can pick strawberries yourself or drink a good cup of coffee with homemade cake in a shadowy spot. No sooner said than done. And we have definitely not regretted it.
Strengthened, we drive the Höhenweg to Litzelstetten and climb from there the steep path to the Purren. In Föhn weather, you can see the end of the lake from here and up into the Oberstdorf Alps. Today, however, all we get to see is the picturesque cloud towers that have been our companions all day.
We cycle a last time over the Bodanrücker forest, past the Dettinger Weiher to Allensbach. Here we get onto the boat to the island of Reichenau and let the evening end with a local Reichenau dish at the campsite Sandseele, a beautiful sunset included.
Day 2: Reichenau Island – Stein am Rhein – Radolfzell, approx. 54 km / 1100 altitude difference
The weather today unfortunately does not mean it as well as yesterday. But at least the sun comes out from time to time between the rain clouds.
With the prospects, getting up is not so easy. In addition, we feel the kilometers from the previous day still in the legs. Fortunately, the solar ship only leaves at half past ten, so we have time for a long breakfast and a short tour of the island of Reichenau, which can call itself not only the vegetable island but also UNSESCO World Heritage Site. Shortly before eleven we reach the Swiss village of Mannenbach with said solar ferry.
Our cycle path immediately leads us steeply uphill. It's a good thing that we can catch our breath briefly after the first few meters of altitude at Napoleon's Arenenberg Castle and marvel at the fabulous view over the Reichenau region all the way to Radolfzell.
It continues steeply uphill, partly through forests and along forest edges, always with a beautiful view of the Lower Lake and the place where the Rhine leaves Lake Constance again. Opposite lies Germany and the Höri.
Unfortunately, the beautiful weather is now over, we drive to Stein am Rhein as quickly as possible and without intermediate stops. Here it is enough for a short Schümli coffee in the cute, but today rainy Alstadt, before we continue over the steep Schiener Berg to Radolfzell. If the weather had continued to cooperate today, we would certainly have made some more stops, but so we were glad to reach the Radolfzell train station to start the journey home.